Cambodia (still) is…

3 09 2013

In July of last year, I wrote a post about all of the things Cambodia had come to mean to me after one year in country. It quickly became– and remains– my most popular post. When I was packing up my house in Kampong Kdey a few months ago, I reread it and realized that most of images still resonated. As a way of capturing those thoughts in printed ink, I submitted the text to Siem Reap’s literary magazine, called the Siem Reader. The latest issue features my piece as the first of the bunch.


A copy of the magazine will make a perfect souvenir to take with me when I leave next month.



15 08 2013

I have always had a deep appreciation for transitions. There’s something gratifying to me about the way that our literal actions, like packing up boxes or hitting the open road, mirror the deeper emotional changes they accompany. When making the decision to stay in Cambodia after my close of service date, I thought often of the fact that I would not be able to make my transition back to the States, and later to Philly, with Tim. The symbolism of taking this next step alone, and months after my husband, didn’t sit well with me. For two years, we had imagined our flight home together, our first day back in the States together, exploring our new neighborhood together. Although I do not have even an ounce of regret about my decision to stay, I am still a little disappointed that Tim and I will have these experiences separately.

Last night, while I was fast asleep, Tim began his journey from Michigan to Philly. He loaded up the moving truck, said goodbye to his parents, and headed east. He drove 300 miles from suburban Detroit to Pittsburgh, where he was lucky enough to meet up with the warmest, most caring friends we’ve ever been blessed to have. They had a small dinner party complete with treats like blackberry basil tea, eggplant sourdough pizza, and peach shortcake — things I can only dream of! Tomorrow, he’ll be making the rest of the trip and moving all of our things into our new, adorable one bedroom apartment in South Philly.

To commemorate this important transition, here are a few pictures from his trip.

moving truck

The moving truck loaded and ready to go

Eating a cookie while driving?

Eating a cookie while driving?

The best of friends

The best of friends

Her too!

Her too!


Celebrating the Highlights of 2012

31 12 2012

This year was the first full calendar year that I’ve spent outside of the US, so it comes as no surprise that there is much to celebrate about 2012.

January: In a Phnom Penh deli with AM

January: In a Phnom Penh deli with AM

A Special Visitor

The year started off with a visit from one of my dearest friends from home: Anne Marie. We spent a week or so hitting the major Cambodian cities, but the best part of all was definitely just spending time with her. It was a great start to what ended up being an equally great year.

April: Hanging out on Halong Bay

April: Hanging out on Halong Bay

Trip to Vietnam

During Khmer New Year in April, Tim and I headed off to Vietnam for three weeks of vacation. We made our way from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi, stopping along the way to see the hills of Dalat, the beaches of Nha Trang, the colonial architecture of Hoi An, and the caves of Dong Hoi.

September: Tim's hospitality students at a hotel in Siem Reap

July: Tim begins working on his hospitality project with this great group of young people

Hospitality Training Begins

With the support of a local NGO and all of you, Tim began managing an intensive hospitality training program for disadvantaged youth in the community. It was the perfect opportunity to combine Tim’s interest in cooking, available NGO resources and a expressed need in the community.

July: The current group of volunteers welcomes the newbies at the airport

July: The current group of volunteers welcomes the newbies at the airport

Welcoming the K6s

A milestone for those of us who had reached the one year mark, welcoming the new group of volunteers to Cambodia reminded us all of how much we had learned and how far we had come since arriving the year before.

August: Teaching project volunteers about childhood nutrition

August: Teaching project volunteers about childhood nutrition

Understanding and Embracing my Role

In August, my project work took off, helping me to see the results of all the hard work I had put in during the first year of service. In the course of a month, I took the girls from my health club to Camp GLOW in Siem Reap, I helped organize and lead a training that would kick off a childhood nutrition program, I started teaching “the monsters” and I got to share some of what I learned with the new volunteers at their training.

October: Visiting the beach town of Sihanoukville

October: Visiting the beach town of Sihanoukville

Hitting the Beach

For our second Pchum Ben, Tim and I decided to take a quick trip down south to visit the relaxed towns of Kampot and Sihanoukville.

October: back to school

October: Back to school

A Second School Year

Immediately following our trip down south, Tim’s second academic year at site began, giving him the opportunity to once again work in the public schools with his choice of counterparts. He was especially excited this year because he knew what to expect and had already developed deep friendships with several teachers at the school.

November: Seeing my parents for the first time in 16 months

November: Seeing my parents for the first time in 16 months

My Parents’ Trip

In November, my parents came to visit and we spent ten days hitting all of the tourist activities in Siem Reap, including the alligator farm, the silk farm, Apsara dancing, the floating villages, the Angkor National Museum, the ceramics center and, of course, the temples.


December: Ringing in the new year in style

The End of 2012

Here we are at the end of the year! Tim and I are celebrating all of the triumphs (and challenges) of 2012 in style in Siem Reap.

Thanks for all of the support and love this year. Wishing everyone a great 2013!


A Linguistic Shift

2 12 2012

Not too long ago, something changed for me, linguistically-speaking. Previously, when someone asked how long I had been in Cambodia, I’d say “more than a year.” Recently, however, my wording evolved. When people ask me now, I reply with the barely distinguishable, “a year and a half” (or, more often than not, the Khmer equivalent for that).

Although this tiny shift may seem insignificant to many, it got me thinking. You see, “a year and a half” is also my reply when people ask me how long I spent in Latin America, meaning that the time I’ve been nervously awaiting has finally arrived. In the upcoming weeks and months, the scale is going to tip and I will have been in Cambodia longer than I was in Latin America.


I loved Nicaragua's volcanos

I loved Nicaragua’s volcanoes…

...its cultural festivities...

…its cultural festivities…


…and the street food!

The tipping of the scale is something I’ve feared since arriving. I can remember riding my bike through the rice paddies in training, speaking to myself out loud in Spanish in a desperate attempt to reserve territory in my brain for the language, even as Khmer started to conquer more and more brain space. I remember clinging to mental images, smells, songs – anything to remind me of my time in Latin America. Spanish was the first language I studied. My first solo trip abroad was to Latin America. I did so much learning and growing in the region. Latin America had a special place in mi corazón. And when I arrived in Cambodia, I couldn’t help but wonder what would happen to it.

It played out in my head like a bad romantic comedy, where I had to choose between my high school sweetheart and the new guy who showed up, inevitably driving a motorcycle (or is it a moped in this case?). Would my love for Latin America grow as I realized that Cambodia’s novelty was enough to grab my attention – but not to hold it? Or would Cambodia win, leaving me to realize how silly I was to ever like Latin America in the first place? Was our history enough to keep us together? Would I even remember my Spanish at the end of all this? Quién sabía?

Well, it might be too early to say for sure, but I think I might have overreacted. (Shocking, isn’t it?) Yes, I love Latin America. It invigorates and inspires me in a way that no other region has. But I also love Cambodia now. It balances and grounds me. Yes, I speak Khmer every day, but I can also speak Spanish (although, admittedly, I do have to stop and think more than I’d like). There are things about each place that I find beautiful, amazing and unique. In my book, the two are equals.

The scenes from Chile, Nicaragua and Argentina have certainly faded with time. Living in this reality can make it hard to imagine any other – including my previous life in Latin America, but also the life I had in the States for 23 years. And, truth be told, my year and a half here has been spent consecutively and in a single country; whereas my time in Latin America was strewn between three countries and across four years. It makes sense that Cambodia is at the center of my thoughts. It makes sense that I have moments each and every day where I give thanks for being here above anywhere else in the world. It makes sense that Latin America has been put on the back burner for now.

Latin America will always be there waiting for me with los brazos abiertos, but until then my heart is here. ខ្ញុំស្រលាញ់កម្ពុជា!


When It Rains, It Pours

23 07 2012

Based on the title, this post could be about the monsoon season, which is currently in full force here in Cambodia. It could be about the downpours that leave me trapped with no protection but a rickety, old seller’s stall. It could be about the deafening storms that periodically keep me up at night. Or the way the rains interfere with classes or outings. But it isn’t. It’s about the ebb and flow of project work. And just like the weather in this country, the workload always seems to be at one extreme or the other.

It’s been interesting, if not altogether unique, to ride the waves of work the past nine months at site. Although people’s schedules and responsibilities go through cycles in the States too, for me it’s always been a different experience abroad. There’s something about the way time passes in a different country, and the way “work” is defined, that exaggerates both the slow and the busy times.

My newest mini-project: Teaching English to the neighborhood kids

Let’s take June as an example. June was a fairly slow month in terms of my workload. A decent portion of my day-to-day work had been taking place with students at the high school, but then exams hit and the students disappeared, some of them never to return. As a result, the things I was doing at the school – namely the girls’ club and Spanish classes – came to a screeching halt, and I was left to regroup. The exam process takes several weeks and it was very difficult to get in touch with any students during that time so I wasn’t able to set up a summer schedule for my existing projects, nor was I able to get anything new started. So mostly I waited. The month still went by quickly and I was very much enjoying life at site, but the workload dropped off significantly for a couple of weeks.

July, on the other hand, has been an absolute madhouse. I have felt completely swamped this month, in the best kind of way. Writing proposals, working on K6 training, teaching at the health center, organizing Camp GLOW, planning for my childhood nutrition project, traveling to Phnom Penh, the list goes on. Yesterday I drafted a calendar for August to give to my health center director, and it looks like August will be busier yet!

This cycle keeps things interesting, keeps me invested and energized. I need both the highs and the lows to stay happy and sane, but most people who know me know that it’s really during those busy times, like right now, that I thrive.


“Settling Down” in Cambodia?

26 09 2011

In just one week, Tim and I will officially swear in as Peace Corps Volunteers and (finally!) begin our two years of service. At this stage, all of us trainees are plagued by questions and doubt:

Will I get to work on projects that interest me?
How will I make friends in my new community?
Will I ever get used to eating rice three times a day?
How will I know if I’ve made a positive impact on my community?
What will it be like to leave the company of other volunteers/trainees?
Do I really have enough skills to do this?

Although these questions are probably common ones, the question that rings in my head is this: How will I react to being in one place for two whole years? Most of you reading this are probably well aware that I have been on the move constantly in recent years. In fact, I recently sat down to figure out the stats:

In the past 7 years, I have lived in seven different cities across four different countries (not including Cambodia). And, to top it off, I have moved residences at least six times more than that! The last time I have lived in any given place for two full years, was from 2002-2004! High School.

I guess you could say I am a nomad. I am incredibly fortunate to have been able to do this, and I have learned more in the past few years than I could have ever anticipated… but am I ready to sit in one place for two years??

Moving so often has allowed me to meet some truly exceptional people. It has given me insight into how people live their lives. And I’ve learned a lot about myself in the process because moving so much has made me step out of my comfort zone so frequently that I’m no longer sure where my comfort zone ends.

Moving so often has also forced me to constantly evaluate– and appreciate– my circumstances. Every time I pack up boxes (or backpacks) full of my things and say goodbye to a place that has become home, I am forced to take stock of the wonderful memories that place has given me.

Furthermore, moving keeps things interesting. It scratches that itch we all get at times, that need to try something new, to get out. There has been a steady stream of curiosity and hope, as I try to predict (to no avail) what my next life will hold.

Of course, being on the move presents a number of challenges as well. The most difficult for me has always been the fact that I haven’t had time to form deep friendships with people before taking off again. I can’t even begin to count the number of times I have left just as I was beginning to form a meaningful relationship with someone. Leaving before these relationships are solidified has, at times, left me feeling isolated. Not to mention that having friends all over the world means that you’re friends (and family) are rarely at your side.

However, the positive aspects have always unquestionably outweighed the negative ones… Until now. Now I am ready to “settle down” for two years in Siem Reap, Cambodia. I’m ready to trade in my wanderlust for the great opportunities I will have as a health worker with the Peace Corps.

I’m sure there will be times I will go a little stir crazy over the course of the next two years, but this experience is one that is absolutely worth it. The friendly people, the beautiful landscape, the work opportunities, the sense of community… Settling down in Siem Reap is hardly a sacrifice! If any opportunity is worth staying put for, this is it!


“Me queda una se…man…a!?”

9 12 2010

People keep reminding me that we leave in a week. I even hear myself saying it to others. “Me queda una sola semanita en La Plata,” I say, but it still hasn’t sunk in. Yes, it’s true, our time in La Plata is coming to an end faster than either of us realize. We’ve been quite busy as our time winds down. Things at work have been uncharacteristically hectic for me. We’re prepping for our return to Pittsburgh, and we’ve been trying to fit in as much sightseeing– and sun!!- as possible before heading back. Our time in La Plata has been great, and we’ll be leaving with the perfect combination of sadness and excitement.

More soon.

Fireworks, ferias and futbol!

23 11 2010

With less than a month left in Argentina, Tim and I have been trying to cross everything off of our “Argentina Bucket List.” It’s been a lot of fun, especially with the beautiful weather we’ve been having!

It started a week ago, when we went with the interns to La Catedral in Buenos Aires. It’s essentially an old warehouse in the city where they give tango lessons and serve food. Since Argentina is known above all else for creating the tango, Tim and I had wanted to take an intro class on the dance. The venue was really cool, the instructors were great and there were people from all over the world. It was a lot of fun, even though neither of us were any good!

Dancing the Tango in La Catedral

Then Friday was the 128th anniversary of La Plata. Tim and I had one of the interns over for dinner and then we headed out to Plaza Moreno. The city put on a series of concerts that started with local bands and culminated with what felt like a never-ending set by Fito Paez. After the concert, there was a short light show followed by a somewhat impressive fireworks display. The whole evening really felt like the 4th of July with the hot weather, the families lounging together in the grass, the fireworks, the men selling glow-in-the-dark toys, and the hot dog vendors parked around the plaza.

The next day, Tim and I went to Buenos Aires to do some touristy things that we still hadn’t done. We started out in Recoleta, where we went to the famous cemetery and artisan fair. We then walked over to Palermo and spent some time in the MALBA, a wonderful art museum featuring Latin American artists. Afterward, we wandered through some of Palermo’s parks including the Japanese garden and the Botanical Garden. It was a really lovely day that made us both appreciate Buenos Aires’ beauty and culture.

Recoleta Cemetery

On Sunday, we went to a futbol game here in La Plata. There are two main teams based here– Gimnasia and Estudiantes– but the Estudiantes’ stadium is being worked on, meaning that they are currently playing their games in the nearby town of Quilmes. So, by default, we decided to see Gimnasia. Gimnasia, ranked second to last in the league, was playing Velez, the number one team, so we expected them to get crushed. The game ended in a tie though, which was quite a victory for Gimnasia. We spent the duration of the game trying to learn the words to what seemed like millions of chants and mimicking the locals by yelling “QUE BOLUDO,” “PELOTUDO” and other insults as loudly as we could. All in all, a fairly successful outing.

Gimnasia-Velez Game

We still have a lot more to fit in before we leave, and I am definitely looking forward to all of it! We’ll try to update a few more times while we’re here.